About

This historical art must open a path

କପାବାରିର ତନ୍ତରେ ଏକ ଜୀବନ, ଏକ ପ୍ରତିଜ୍ଞା।

Master trainer of Sambalpuri Bandha. Shishya of Padma Shri Chaturbhuj Meher. National Merit 1996, National Award 2012, Sant Kabir Award 2015.

Demonstration at Pragati Maidan, 1985 — National Handicrafts and Handloom Museum, Ministry of Textiles
Pragati Maidan, 1985 · National Handicrafts and Handloom Museum
Life at the loom

From a borrowed frame to Kapabari

Bhaktaraj Meher first touched the loom beside his father, Tikeswar Meher, in class three — a child of eight. After his tenth examination he left school for the yarn. Studies still pulled him; poverty closed the door. Rice had risen from two and a half rupees a kilo to three. The family had no mud house of their own in which to set a tanta. Neighbours lent a roof. He worked three hours after school so the drawings could pay for the next day’s food.

Those drawings were taken up by Sambalpuri Bastralaya and the Sambalpuri Handloom Stores — the co-operative that first carried Bargarh Bandha into the market. His father insisted the sketches become Bandha. Production officer Sashidhar Meher, himself a Sant Kabir Awardee, still records that early work in a letter of record.

National Merit in 1996, for the Dui Fulia cotton saree, brought invitations to train boys and girls across districts. Students who could not pay sat in the same small house and learned for nothing. Five of them later received the National Award. They were the ones who pushed him to submit a cloth of his own. In 2012 the Ministry of Textiles named that cloth: Tribeni Sudhamayee.

Padma Shri Chaturbhuj Meher had already accepted him as a shishya, then sent him to Vishwakarma Weaving Samiti to train five to six hundred women between 2004 and 2014. Sant Kabir followed in 2015 for Bibaha Bandhana — two souls bound, as marriage binds. A Springer Nature chapter later carried the work to readers beyond Odisha. He still lectures, still hosts study tours, still walks the villages around Bargarh so the next generation has a path. Jay Jagannath.

Jay Jagannath.
Mission

(ହସ୍ତତନ୍ତ ବୁଣାକାରଙ୍କ ପାଇଁ ବାର୍ତ୍ତା)

A message for handloom weavers

ନୂତନ ଡିଜାଇନ ତିଆରି କରିବା ସହ ପାରମ୍ପରିକ କଳାର ପୁନରୁଦ୍ଧାର ସକାଶେ କାର୍ଯ୍ୟ କରିବା ଆବଶ୍ୟକ। ଆମେ ନିଜ କଳାକୁ ଉଚିତ ସମ୍ମାନ ଦେବା ସହିତ ନିଜେ ବ୍ୟବହାର କରିବା। ଆମ ବୟନକଳା, ସମ୍ବଲପୁରୀ ବାନ୍ଧକଳା ସମାଜରେ ବେଶ ଆଦୃତ। ଏଣୁ ସମସ୍ତ ବୁଣାକାର ପରିବାରର ବ୍ୟକ୍ତି ମାନେ ଏହି କଳାକୁ ଶିକ୍ଷାକରି ଏହାର ଉତ୍ତରୋତ୍ତର ଅଗ୍ରଗତି ନିମନ୍ତେ କାର୍ଯ୍ୟକରିବା। ଏହି ବୃତ୍ତି ଦ୍ୱାରା ବୁଣାକାର ସମାଜ ନିଜ ଜୀବିକା ନିର୍ବାହ କରୁଛନ୍ତି। ଏଣୁ ସାମାଜିକ ଶୃଙ୍ଖଳା ରଖିବା ସହିତ ବ୍ୟକ୍ତିଗତ ଅଗ୍ରଗତିର ପଥକୁ ଉନ୍ମୁକ୍ତ କରିବା।

New design must walk with the revival of traditional art. We honour our own craft by wearing it. Sambalpuri Bandha is held in high regard — every weaver family should learn it, keep social discipline, and open a path of personal progress. This work is livelihood; it should also be dignity.

Guru and cluster

The house that sent him, the society that holds him

Felicitation by Padma Shri Chaturbhuj Meher at Bhulia Maha Sabha, Padampur
Lineage

Padma Shri Chaturbhuj Meher

Accepted as a shishya at Vayan Vihar. After twenty-five years with the Weavers’ Service Centre, the guru received the Padma Shri in 2005, then sent this student to train hundreds of women at Vishwakarma Weaving Samiti from 2004 to 2014. His letters still name Bhaktaraj among the finest disciples. Honour at Bhulia Maha Sabha, Padampur, sits in that same line.

Speaking to younger weavers at Jhiliminda during a NID Ahmedabad and India Exim Bank programme
Home cluster

Jhiliminda Traditional Weavers SHG Co-operative

Founded 30 June 2008. Thirteen national-awardee artisans work from this society; President Hari Lal Meher names Bhaktaraj as a guiding master. NID Ahmedabad and India Exim Bank have hosted design and quality programmes here — the cluster, not a classroom far from the loom.

Teaching

Training that stays in the village

Annexure I and the village ledger name the same work: design drafting, yarn tie and dye, then a livelihood that does not leave Bargarh.

  • Vishwakarma · 2004–14
  • Skill India · 2020
  • Athamallik SFURTI · 2025
  • Talmenda POHI
Village ledger
Converting a graph into Bandha on stretched warp with trainees
Graph into Bandha — the mark on the warp
On the record

Print, television, and the page

Springer Nature chapter featuring Sant Kabir Awardee Bhaktaraj Meher with a conceptual saree
Publication

Springer Nature

Featured in the chapter Community, Local Practices and Cultural Sustainability: A Case Study of Sambalpuri Ikat Handloom by S. Pradhan and A. Khandual. Swikruti Pradhan of Rustic Hue names him a guiding force of that work.

The Samaja Handloom Day clipping and a Doordarshan interview
Press · broadcast

The Samaja · Doordarshan

On the eve of National Handloom Day, published in the Odia daily The Samaja. A Doordarshan frame places the same voice beside NHDC and HEPC.

Sambad Sambalpur edition, 4 June 2012, on Bargarh weavers honoured
Press

Sambad · 4 June 2012

Sambalpur edition: seven Bargarh weavers honoured. The clipping sits with the National Award year — a local paper keeping the same order as the certificate.

Voices

Letters of record

Letter of record 2016

Certified as an excellent Tie & Dye Bandha craftsman and among his finest disciples, practising Ikat cotton sarees and producing invaluable work for future generations.

Padma Shri Chaturbhuj Meher Shilpaguru · Vayan Vihar
Letter of record 2026

Praised workmanship, imagination, colour sense and aesthetic value; noted more than 500 weavers trained and a life dedicated to Sambalpuri Bandha Kala.

Dr. Chaturbhuja Meher Vayan Vihar, January 2026
Letter of record 2016

Expert weaver and trainer from 2004 to 2014; instructor for the AHVY project and skill-upgradation workshops for 34 SHGs and 240 artisans.

Viswakarma Silk Khadi Weavers Samity Manamunda, Boudh
Letter of record 2019

His advice, experience and craftsmanship in the Tie & Dye Bandha field is excellent.

Dr. Surendra Kumar Director, IIHT Bargarh
Letter of record 2018

We were privileged to see your masterpieces. Each piece of your work is like a master achievement.

Dr. Ela Dedhia & Dr. Geeta Ibrahim Nirmala Niketan, University of Mumbai
Letter of record 2026

Exceptional support for design development and Tie & Dye technology for Sambalpuri saree weaves at the Athamallik Handloom Cluster.

Dibakar Maharana Secretary, KOSISH
Letter of record 2026

A guiding force and mentor who shaped the label’s understanding of Ikat design, precision and artisan-led production. Featured in a Springer chapter on Sambalpuri Ikat sustainability.

Swikruti Pradhan Founder, Rustic Hue
Letter of record 2024

Outstanding contribution as a National Awardee Tie & Dye trainer, empowering artisans and preserving cultural heritage.

CHANDRAMA Boudh
Letter of record

Sri Bhaktaraj Meher of Kapabari was attached to Sambalpuri Bastralaya, Bargarh. He took new designs, trained weavers in tie and dye, and added to the co-operative’s production. He continues to train new weavers.

Sashidhar Meher Production Officer, Sambalpuri Bastralaya · Sant Kabir Awardee
Letter of record

In forty-five years of tie and dye he has developed a love of this art in those who come under his guidance. Among his disciples, five have received national awards for designing — old and new.

Sri Murali Meher Sant Kabir and National Awardee · Bajrang Colony
Letter of record 2015

He does not keep the craft to himself. He visits weavers’ homes, gives direction, and opens a path of livelihood. His work in Sambalpuri Bandha is a matter of pride for the district.

Bargarh Zilla Meher Samaj Sangathan Citation, 7 March 2015
Letter of record 2024

A recommendation for a Life Time Achievement Award, 2024–25 — not an award received. Four to five training batches of about thirty trainees each have been conducted under his guidance. Weaving here is cultural responsibility, not only occupation.

Sulbha Jadhav Sarna Welfare Foundation — recommendation
Craft / Process

From graph to Bandha

Sambalpuri Ikat is drawn, tied, dyed and woven — a family craft with no waste and no short cut.

1. Graph

Motifs are drafted on graph, then taught so trainees can convert paper into yarn logic.

2. Tie

Women typically prepare yarn and bind the resist. Men often handle Bandha and the loom.

3. Dye

Colour is built in layers. The diamond, temple edge and Phoda Kumbha live in the thread before the cloth exists.

4. Weave

The loom reveals the Ikat. Children in Meher families still learn the frame as a first language.

Teaching graph formula on the blackboard at Talmenda
Graph

Formula on the board

At Talmenda he drafts yarn counts and motifs in chalk so trainees can convert paper into Bandha logic.

Dot-grid motif drawn on graph paper
Graph

Motif on the grid

Each square on the clipboard is a future tie. The drawing is the cloth, before dye or loom.

Marking Bandha on stretched warp with trainees
Tie

Graph onto the yarn

The same motif is marked on stretched warp — women typically prepare and bind; men often handle Bandha and the loom.

Drawing Bandha on graph paper in the studio
Studio

At the clipboard

Kapabari hospitality is part of the craft: students sit at the family table and watch a drawing become cloth.

Meher households still receive students as guests. Children in weaving families often begin Bandha around twelve; the age belongs here, in the process, not in the hero. Village women wear the cloth every day. In the city it is festival wear. The sequence leaves almost no environmental residue — sustainable fashion, drawn before a single knot is tied.

At Talmenda under POHI he taught how a graph becomes Bandha. At Kapabari, students from Nirmala Niketan watched the same sequence on a working loom.

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